Fodele - all you need to know.
Taking the new national road from Heraklion towards Rethymnon and driving past the signs to Agia Pelagia after 28 km you will soon see on the right-hand side the sandy beach of Fodele with a large hotel complex built on the slope of the hills. Turning off the main road follow the signs to the village of Fodele.
Fodele cannot be described as just another traditional village on Crete. First of all, it is located in an area of lush beautiful greenery. This fertile area is well-known (by locals) for its agricultural products; in particular the orange, mandarine and lemon groves which decorate the landscape. Also it is home to many olive trees which line the hillsides ready for their oil to be harvested in wintertime. The village enjoys the company of many tourists during the summer months, but in wintertime it is home to just over 500 permanent residents.
The centre of the village is home to a picturesque square in the middle of which stands a huge platonas tree. This gnarled old tree is said to be over 1,000 years old. In its shade lies a plaque and marble memorial to commenorate the painter El Greco.
If the outdoors and fresh air gives you an appetite, there are quite a few traditional tavernas which fill the air with the delicious aroma of homemade Greek food.
For lovers of local traditional craft ware the village is a shoppers paradise. Full of quaint little shops run by the locals you cannot find more tradition elsewhere. Handmade lace, table cloths, rugs, jewellery, you name it the local gift shops will have it.
According to historians, Fodele was once the site of the ancient town of Astali, the sea port of ancient Axos although there are no remains to support this claim. It certainly is a rural village that is charming and popular amongst both local people and tourists.
It may not be a location for "beach and sun worshippers" but it is definitely an attraction for all nature lovers. Just a few steps out of the village and you can enjoy the beauty of the Cretan landscape and flora in all its glory. A small river that crosses the middle of the village has water running through it even in early summer which is indeed rare for most places on Crete. To the west of the village there is a small beach but this has no facilities so be prepared to "rough it".
El Greco House and Museum
Domenikos Theotokopolous, or El Greco as he is commonly known, was born into a wealthy family in this humble village of Fodele in 1541. To further his career as an artist he first travelled to Venice and Rome and in 1577 he moved further afield to Spain where he created his most famous works of art. It was in Toledo, Spain where he produced his best works of art. It is quite touching when you consider that the memorial in the village square is mounted on a rock from this same area in Spain.
Situated about 1 km west outside the village is his birthplace. This is now a museum dedicated to his life and works of art and a small collection of memorabilia are displayed. There is a collection of reproductions of his paintings which are hung in the small rooms. Admission to the museum costs just a few euros. In addition, there is also a small cafeteria close by.
In the village there is also a bust of El Greco by the sculptor Apartis, which was installed in 1964 to commemorate 350 years since his death.
Byzantine Church in Fodele
As you approach the El Greco Museum there is the Church of Annunciation of the Virgin Mary dating from the 11th to 12th century (Panagia). Inside you can observe many fine frescoes covering the surfaces of the building. These depict the saints and various religious events. Perhaps El Greco was inspired by these to pursue his own love of religious art. Visitors to the church are kindly asked not to take photos of the inside as its treasures within have not yet been published.
The Monastery of Agios Panteleimon in Fodele
If you do feel like a walk in nature or perhaps a small journey (by bike or car) just 5 km from the village is the Monastery of Saint Panteleimon. This is dedicated to the patron Saint of bakers and if you are lucky enough to visit on the 27th July (the feast day) you will indeed be impressed by the annual celebration which takes place in and around the Monastery. Built in the last period of the Venetian occupation it is in complete harmony with its lush surroundings. As the monastery was central to revolutionary action it was severely damaged and many artifacts were stolen. Having said that it still maintains the traditional architecture of a monastery.
One final note: of course when visiting either a church or a monastery, visitors should be dressed appropriately. Beach wear is definitely not acceptable.